Checking The Checkpoint
Old Blue | Monday, March 19th, 2012 | 15 Comments »Mentoring can be a hoot. The incidents of the past few weeks, little helpful things done by my fellow Soldiers, have made life a bit more… interesting. I mean that in the Confucian sense. That being said, my mentee is a Hajji, having returned from the obligatory pilgrimage only a few months ago. He is a literate, committed Muslim. His viewpoint on the Quran burning was summed up with, “We have illiterate people in our society, too.” He assumed that such ignorance of Afghan values could only come from illiteracy. I didn’t burst his bubble.
Part of mentoring is going where your mentee goes. COL Shiripir* and I were having a conversation about going about his normal business while I am with him. I was beginning to feel like he felt that he had to treat me as a special guest and that this perception was keeping him from doing what he would like to do. I told him that my job is to go wherever he goes when I am able to be with him. The Colonel tested this statement immediately.
A quick stop at a roadside stand for fruit to take to the ABP checkpoint
“Good. I am going on Saturday to check on the Tulai (company) I have out at the checkpoint as part of the operation,” he stated, observing me for my reaction.
“That sounds great. I’d love to go with you.”
I arranged for a medic, PV2 Hernandez**, and a JFO (Joint Fires Observer), SPC Simon***, to come with us, and offered my boss the opportunity to get out and about as well. I let the Colonel know about the force protection requirements that I had to meet in order to make the trip with him. He agreed to provide the requisite four trucks (Rangers). The medic is self-explanatory. The JFO was taken as much for his communications ability as for his specialty of calling for things that go boom. The medic can treat wounds, but we were going to be outside of radio range and he can use other means to get a bird in the air if we needed a MEDEVAC for any reason.
On Saturday we were told to hang tight in the parking lot and that the Rangers would be pulling up soon and would stage near us. I went over the procedures in case of emergency with those who were going out (turned out to be four Americans). Backbriefs (tell me what I just said) successfully done, we were ready to mount up when the ABP brought the trucks up.
LTC Grass and I hopped in COL Shiripir’s truck with our linguist, Walid****, while the two younger soldiers rode in the vehicle directly behind us. With little fanfare, we were on our way. Walid, the Afghan-born American interpreter, rode between the LTC and myself in the back seat of the Ranger, and it was a tight fit with the weapons and the unforgiving body armor. Quickly, we were on the main road (the Ring Road), headed towards the checkpoint.
We got a few surprised looks when someone noticed us in the Rangers, but to a great extent we were nearly invisible due to the fact that few people pay attention to such a common occurrence as an ABP truck rolling by. Being back at street level gave a different perspective.
Sometimes a new perspective can be a good thing.
We rolled out of the city and into open farm land. The farmers in Balkh Province do something I’ve not seen elsewhere, tenting rows with neat plastic mini-greenhouses to get an early start on some crops. I don’t know yet what’s under the tentage, but if I find out, I’ll let you know.
As we worked our way west into the next district, we got off of the main road and passed through villages on our way to the checkpoint. The Rangers easily handled the rutted dirt roads. We passed through brief moments of normal village life, getting the briefest of glimpses of people, places and interactions. We passed through a Hazara village, a Pashtun village and a village populated by what the locals call, “Arabs,” in succession. Seeing the subtle differences in dress was interesting.
Domed roofs provide extra cooling in the summer
As we neared our destination, the Colonel transmitted on the radio and one of the green ABP Rangers rushed forward, disappearing around a bend. He told us that he had sent a truck ahead to establish security. We nodded, thinking this was a good idea. Several minutes later, he told us that he had sent the truck with our two junior soldiers forward, apologizing for any inconvenience and saying that he hoped that this was not a problem.
It turned out well, but the two younger soldiers got a little concerned when they lost sight of us. They told us this later when we pulled up to the Khalat, formerly owned by a now-deceased Taliban commander, that the ABP was using as a patrol base.
As two of the trucks set up outside, our two trucks pulled into the gate of the compound and we dismounted. A small contingent of the Tulai (company) assembled into a formation and the contingent was presented to the Colonel by the Tulai commander with a salute and a formal greeting. The Colonel then spoke to the assembly and introduced me as his mentor and asked if I had anything to say.
I spoke briefly about how good it was see them, and how good it was to see that they all seemed to be in good form even in the spartan conditions. I then shook each of their hands. The formation was dismissed and we were ushered into the commander’s quarters for chai. The floors were covered in rugs, and there were traditional sleeping mats arranged around the perimeter of the small room. We were each bid to sit, and we dropped our body armor and weapons and sat down.
An ABP gun truck provides overwatch with a PKM
There were some introductions to be made, and we enjoyed some pleasant conversation for a while while we waited for the chai, which was extremely hot when it arrived. We were informed that we would be staying for lunch. The Lieutenant who commands the Tulai briefed us on his patrol plan and show
ed us the limited but effective graphics of the operation.
It took very little time to grasp the concept of what they were doing. These men were organized and conducting daily operations, not just squatting in a khalat. I captured their graphics with my camera so that we would be able to share them with the rest of the team back at Marmal.
After discussing the joint operations that were being conducted with other branches of the ANSF (Afghan National Security Forces), the Police and Army, it was time for lunch. A soldier came in with a pitcher of water and a large stainless steel bowl. I explained to my compatriots what was occurring, that it was time to wash our hands. Starting with Colonel Shiripir, the bowl was held under his hands and water was poured so that he could wash his hands. Each of us then washed our hands in similar fashion and we were treated to one of the best Afghan meals that I’ve ever had.
Inside of the dome
Afghans are extremely hospitable hosts, and will try their best to over-feed you. Being hospitable, once you start refusing more food they ask if it didn’t taste good. I told the commander that the food was so good that he must give his cook my compliments. He summoned the cook and had me thank him myself. I think that made his day. After a lunch of pillau, beef, the obligatory nan, tangerines and chai, there was more conversation and pictures.
Lunch completed, it was time for a walkabout to see the ABP and what they were doing. More pictures. We saw where the ANA who were part of the operation were staying. Finally, it was time to leave.
The drive back to Marmal was long, but we drove right through the center of Mazar-e Sharif and within sight of the famous Blue Mosque. The ABP drove us right to the gate of Marmal and dropped us off, where we parted with handshakes and hugs under the amazed gazes of the Germans and the Armenian gate guards. We strolled in, our mission complete, and enjoyed a feeling of satisfaction after a day spent with our Afghan counterparts. Overall, it was a bonding experience for us, and showed the Afghans that we trusted them and were not afraid to go where they go in the same conditions they travel in. We also gained insight into their operations and found that this particular Kandak is capable of conducting ongoing operations at the Tulai level and provide their own logistical support.
It was a good day.
* Not his real name.
** Also not his real name.
*** You know the drill.
**** Now I feel like I’m insulting your intelligence, but I gotta say it; not his real name. Sorry.
Another interesting post! When your traveling with your mentee, what is your mindset, are you at ease and comfortable, or constantly on the edge? Do you ever have concerns about insurgents?
Usually I am relaxed and comfortable. I stay aware of what is going on around me, I look for indicators that something is wrong, but I don’t feel on edge. Just as you could pick up on whether a co-worker or an acquaintance is on edge, Afghans can pick up on that, too. It’s a human trait. So that would be counterproductive. Sometimes I have concerns about insurgents, but I don’t worry about it. I make the best preparations that I can and still accomplish my mission. That’s why I took the JFO and the medic. One thing about being on the counterinsurgent side is that you rarely get to be the one who shoots first. It’s what happens after the initial contact that matters. I keep my eyes out for IED’s, but there is only so much that you can see, especially from the back seat. So that was the biggest threat on such a mission. Our MRAPs are built to take a blast. The Ford Rangers aren’t. Still, at a certain point you’ve got to give it up to God and do what you are there to do, and all you can do is the best you can do.
Well thanks for the response. Do your best to stay over there… Looking forward to more posts from you.
I have seen those mini greenhouses used by farmers in the Central Valley of CA. I always thought it would be nice if farmers put up signs stateing what is growing as I only seem to be able to recognise corn.
I’m not sure, but this technique may have been taught to them by one of the National Guard agricultural teams. It’s surprising how much of it has been done, though. I’ll try to get a picture.
Most interesting as you get closer to real Afghan world. Stay safe as much as you can.
Maybe security conditions in MaS area allow you more proximity with poeple outside military compounds?
way cool. thanks, we operate in the blind here at home. i noticed that the homes and villages -lacking the green forest- resemble the villages in mexico outside the big cities. i guess all people living a marginal existence build similar simple homes out of the local materials.
Thanks again for another great post Blue. Interesting comment about the Guard. On your first tour, the Guard pretty much doubled as Special Forces, if I’m not mistaken.
So glad that you had a good day!
Nice to see your new post.
Did you have a sense that they were concerned about your meeting going well/safe at the check point? What is “obligatory nan?”
As always, enjoyed reading about your experience.
Mary
I felt like the guest of honor, really. Nan (pronounced, “non,”) is flat bread usually baked on the walls of a kiln-like oven. I have never met anyone who doesn’t like nan. There are different kinds of nan… mostly a subtle difference, but this was Uzbeki nan (nan Uzbeki in Dari), which is a little thicker. The Uzbeki nan is flat and round (many types of nan are rectangular) and about the size of a plate. In texture, it is kind of like the inside of a giant pretzel, perhaps a little lighter. It is pulled apart with the hands for eating, and it pulls apart about like a… well… giant pretzel. It is really good.
Thank you for reading, and thank you very much for the comment and the Twitter mentions.
Glad you’re still alive and writing. I always like to read what you have to say _inside_ the sandbox.
First off, great writing and thank you for your service. I have a quick question about your interaction with the Afghani’s. How are you and your team able to operate with them with all of the mistrust that exists?
Darren, thanks for the question. With the Afghans I work with, there is no atmosphere of distrust. When we first arrived, there was a process of getting to know each other, and based on that, we get along great. I trust them enough to ride with them in their Ford Rangers instead of our armored MRAPs. I don’t do this every day, and I do analyze the risk involved for each mission before I do ride with them. But that risk is based on what the enemy might do, not what I think the ABP will do.
I have believed for a long time, and still do, that “green-on-blue” incidents are most often caused by an atmosphere of disrespect. I have lots of experience working with Afghans, and Afghan society is based on a set of norms, just like ours. One of their norms is that if you treat people with respect… genuine respect, not feigned respect or fawning… that you will be respected and accepted. I have not worked with every Afghan, and there are a few (very few) infiltrators. Afghan vetting standards for new recruits are better and stricter than they’ve ever been. I don’t believe that the problem is largely caused by infiltrators but by soldiers who are untrained in dealing with Afghans and a lack of discipline in ensuring that cultural understanding is trained and respectful behavior is enforced.
Bad language and disrespectful gestures here can get you killed. Leering at or comments about Afghan women can get you killed. Or, it may not get you killed; it may get you and your buddies killed. Or it may get whoever follows you in your position killed if you did a lot of it and they do just a little more. It’s hard to find a parallel in American society, but there are things you can say or do over here that can put someone that far over the edge. Or, you can develop a great relationship with them and never have that problem. I have had my life saved by Afghans. It’s a choice that you make for yourself.
I trust the Afghans that I work with, and they treat me with a great deal of respect. I treat them with respect, but I don’t fawn over them or laud them unnecessarily or undeservedly. I treat them as men who are worthy of respect and worthy of being worked alongside. In return, I get to do rewarding work and have a little fun without worrying about becoming a murder victim.
The younger soldiers, affected by the stories and what seems to be the official Army line; “It’s the Afghans’ fault for not being more careful with who they recruit,” were very nervous at first. Now, when we arrive at 5th Zone HQ they scamper off to the Afghan kitchen, where the baker gives them nan (flat bread) fresh out of the oven.
That’s how we deal with it.
Like the idea of ‘domed roof’ to make cold the hot weather! We are used to see the violence of war in Afghanistan but after visiting your post feeling chilled to know their hospitality. Thanks for giving a different sort of the country.